Coming almost immediately after the big names of Paris Fashion Week and Pitti Uomo, Copenhagen Fashion Week took a different approach. The schedule leaned heavily on Danish labels and emerging designers, while Copenhagen Fashion Week has also stressed a commitment to sustainability and reducing its environmental impact over recent seasons.
As well as a return to physical shows, the Fall/Winter 2022 season also saw digital presentations from labels including Schnayderman’s, Holzweiler and Ganni. With Copenhagen Fashion Week FW22 recently finishing, HYPEBEAST rounded up five of the best shows, including a mix of established Danish names and young up and comers.
One of the Copenhagen Fashion Week’s biggest players unveiled its FW22 collection titled “Original Memory, An Autobiography.” Soulland‘s collection incorporated a number of collaborations, including graphics by artist Charlie Roberts and knitwear alongside Armor Lux, while the brand’s latest footwear with Li-Ning was a standout.
Elsewhere, Soulland utilized a color palette that mixed classic black, navy, camel and white tones with hits of orange, red and green. Other motifs included stripes – on suiting, Tencel shirting and knitted jacquard – and flowers, which form the basis of Roberts’ artworks for the collection.
Taking space travel and UFOs as its starting point, rising label (di)vision took over Copenhagen’s planetarium for its FW22 show. While the influences may have come from outer space, the collection itself continued to develop the label’s upcycled aesthetic, with a recurring focus on deadstock fabrics and unwanted pieces.
This theme – central to (di)vision’s work – was shown through patchwork jackets and the brand’s popular half-and-half outerwear. Alongside the upcycled pieces, the brand also introduced a selection of graphic hoodies and tees that showcased the collection’s UFO influence.
Copenhagen stalwart Wood Wood celebrated its 20th anniversary with a live performance from Overmono and a collection that referenced the past two decades. References were diverse, with workwear-inspired denim sitting alongside technical accessories and jacquard knits and nylon patches.
The 20th anniversary collection also included a collaboration with Danish painter Tal R, incorporating select works from the artist’s archive. This artwork appears on some of the collection’s key pieces, including the oversized Cawi vogel cardigan, a two-piece set and a bomber jacket complete with nylon patches.
Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen
As well as opening this season’s Copenhagen Fashion Week, Tobias Birk Nielsen’s Iso.Poetism label was also announced as the winner of the Zalando Sustainability Award for its FW22 collection. The collection was titled “The Echoes Which We Remain,” and was created in response to a personal tragedy in Tobias Birk Nielsen’s life.
The show took place surrounded by ashes, volcanic rocks and wild flowers, showing a collection of apocalyptic-influenced pieces. The clothing itself referenced this theme, with deconstructed and distressed items in a color palette that mixes cold whites and blues with hits of bright green. Materials included a focus on recycled poly fibers, finished using a proprietary dyeing technique that uses the least possible amount of water.
Danish stalwart Henrik Vibskov imagined a different future for FW22, looking both to outer space and the way in which we can archive and protect belongings on earth. A particular influence was the Global Seed Vault in Svalbard, which exists as a backup for crops across the earth. The FW22 collection builds on this idea, and the imagined future of sending this archive into space.
The collection’s theme is referenced through its color palette – black, brown, beige, dark red and navy blue alongside bright details – as well as prints of blurred lights, imagined galaxy patterns and space station patches. Additionally, pieces come in oversized silhouettes, with references to protective gear across the collection’s details.